Organza is a slightly lustrous, transparent, plain weave fabric that is made from silk or synthetic fabric; it is a type of sheer, crisp organdy. This type of fabric is generally used for evening wear, bridal veils, or linings. Although organza has many appealing features, it can often be a difficult fabric to work with. Because organza can be so expensive, it is best to plan ahead before beginning a project.
Organza can be a tricky fabric to work with for many reasons. First of all, most construction details, including the seams, hems, and facings, may be visible on the outside of the garment. The seams have a tendency to pucker. The fabric has a silky texture that often makes it slippery to work with. Lastly, the ends of the fabric tend to fray badly.
While the fabric may not be the easiest to work with, there are some general tips that will increase your success with the garment you are making. First of all, when looking for a pattern, verify that organza is a suitable fabric. You can find this information on the back of your chosen pattern, where are of the measurements are listed. Choose a pattern with a minimum of seams, and that is not a closely fitted design. Always preshrink the fabric before cutting, stem press, and use sharp scissors to cut out the pattern.
It is always important to have your sewing machine set to the correct settings as determined by your fabric. When working with organza, use a fine, preferably new, ball-point needle size 11 to 14. Use a polyester thread. Set your stitch length anywhere from 12 to 15. For decorative or hemstitching use a wing twin needle. Use a machine embroidery thread 50. Set the stitch length to either 10 or 11. It is always best to use an extra scrap of material to check your sewing machine settings before you begin working on your garment. This is especially true when working with organza.
Organza is also an excellent choice for an underlining fabric. Underlining is usually used when interfacing cannot be applied directly to the garment fabric. The underlining is used to give support to the garment fabric. It prevents seam to show through on white or light-colored fabrics. It can help reduce wrinkling and absorb perspiration which may otherwise go through the garment fabric.
Whether you are making a garment or the underlining, there are some general tips to working with organza. It is recommended that your thread be secured with a knot, a spot tack, or a shorter stitch. Try not to use the backstitch method. Avoid fusible facing–instead try decorative facing, bias binding, or tulle. Good choices for closures include button loops or worked buttonholes, either by hand or machine. Avoid bound buttonholes, unless the section is underlined. It is recommended that zippers by applied by hand, and it is best to use a lightweight zipper.